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My
daughter, Brooke, and I glide to a stop and tie-off our tandem Necky
Amaruk to the long string of sea kayaks anchored to the motorboat in
front of us. We’ve paddled three miles off Belize’s Halfmoon Caye to get
here; now come the spoils of our strokes.
We pull snorkels and
fins from the deck rigging, cinch them on, and then swing our legs over
the side. Soon we’re swimming in the aqua-marine waters of the
Caribbean, gliding effortlessly over forests of coral and an oasis of
marine life. It’s the first time either of us have snorkeled via sea
kayak, and we’re officially addicted.
Our guide, James, points
out Queen Angels, barracuda, nurse sharks and more, as well as a cluster
of columnar pillar coral. “You have to get close to see its beauty,” he
says back on the surface.
His statement is a metaphor to follow
in life. Look closely to see things’ inner beauty. Brooke grasps the
concept immediately. While I cover as much ground as possible, she
sticks her fingers into every sea anemone in sight. James, too, goes
slow, seeing more because of it.
Back under, I follow his
advice, studying details I soared past before -- the tiny Gobi fish,
darting damsels and “gang of tangs” riding herd like the mafia. I’ve
learned a valuable lesson: Go slow, mon’, the small things in life make
it whole.
Halfmoon Cay is the outermost atoll in Belize, a
two-hour boat ride from the mainland. It sits in the heart of Lighthouse
Reef National Park, one of the crown jewels of the Belize Barrier Reef,
the second largest reef in the world. We’re here – my wife, Denise, and
daughters Brooke, 12, and Casey, 8 – during April spring break with
Island Expeditions, an outfitter specializing in sea kayak trips in
Belize.
When we arrive at the 45-acre island, guide Andi Shluker
leads us down a sandy path to a camp comprised of wall tents, hammocks
and a large, canvas-walled dining hall, which doubles as living room,
bar and library. Adjacent to camp is a research center for the Belize
Audubon Society. At 10,000-acres, the Lighthouse bio-preserve was the
first protected marine area in the Caribbean.
Our tent doors
face the oncoming breeze. Raised wooden floors support a double bed and
nightstand with oil lamp, and a clothes shelf hangs in the corner.
Later,
we select a kayak from a multi-colored lineup on the beach and paddle
to the far end of the island, beaching on a rocky shore where we put on
our snorkel gear. It’s a world-class aquarium, as blue as the Colorado
sky back home. We see nurse sharks, rays, lion fish, octopus and more,
the kids poking me in the side with every new creature. A lobster
scurries out of a cave, sending Casey and Brooke scampering away. Back
on the beach, Brooke announces that she wants to be an underwater
photographer when she grows up. Two hours on the island and she has her
career mapped out.
Casey ogles a hermit crab on the way back to
camp. There’s little reason for the fanfare. That night, the same path
is crawling with them like a scene from Night of the Living Dead. James
draws concentric circles in the sand for crab races; the first crab out
wins. Casey’s, named Pinchy, takes top honors.
In
the morning, all signs of them are gone, save for their tell-tale
tracks crisscrossing the sand. Casey is already awake, following
Shamrock, the 9-year-old son of a local fisherman, down the beach. “Hey
dad,” she says proudly. “I hired him to get me a coconut!”
Breakfast
is in the dining hall, where ship rope wraps around three giant beams
supporting a canvas ceiling. A raised wooden floor keeps sand at bay. A
few kids play Jenga at the coffee table. Next to this is the bar, above
which “cocktails” is written on a wooden fish. To the left is a
bookshelf filled with games, novels and guidebooks, including Paul
Humann and Ned Deloach’s Reef Fish Identification: Florida, Caribbean,
Bahamas, which I’ll refer to often.
After fresh fruit, juice,
bacon and banana pancakes, Andi tells us the day’s itinerary. We’ll sail
our sea kayaks four miles to Long Caye. Selecting the Amaruk, I put
Casey in the bow, while Brooke rides in the motor boat to snorkel for
conch.
The Caribbean breeze fills our sail like the pirate craft
of yesteryear. In the main channel, Denise latches her single onto us
for additional stability. As we gain speed, waves arc over the bow,
splashing Casey with 80-degree water. She laughs with each dousing. We
catch guides Moses and Gene in the lead kayak and I let the sail slough
to slow down. Once at Long Cay, we drop sail and paddle through a swath
of sea grass to make landfall. James makes fresh conch ceviche, two
harvested by Brooke, while the kids throw cannonballs off an old dock.
After
a drift snorkel above a bottomless reef wall, we return to Halfmoon,
towing our kayaks like sausages behind the motorboat to avoid beating
into the wind. We arrive just in time for a sunset game of volleyball,
the net secured by palm trees, and rum-and-coconut-juice happy hour. It
takes Casey six tries to successfully hop in a hammock, and even then
she still tumbles out onto the sand.
Our
fish and coconut pie food coma is interrupted by Andi, who outlines the
next day’s activities on the chalkboard. Options include fishing -- or
“catching,” as the locals call it – a tour to a “secret” snorkeling
spot, or an advanced kayaking excursion. Tonight is Paul’s birthday and
James serenades him with a guitar. Later, rum-induced conversation turns
to the hermaphroditic habits of parrot fish, which start as
large-scaled females with ovaries and mature into multi-colored males
with testes.
A sunrise yoga session is hosted by Tammy Fovargue,
a visiting instructor from Aspen, Colo. Her caressing voice talks us
through various positions as I stretch shoulder and back muscles sore
from paddling. At breakfast, she tells me yoga is the perfect complement
to kayaking. “They’re both very meditative,” she says. “They bring your
Yin-Yang, and male/female together.” It sounds like those
hermaphroditic parrot fish, I think, spearing a piece of papaya with my
fork.
After another paddle and snorkel, we stroll a path to the
Audubon Society’s bird observation deck. Climbing a stairway to the
platform, we stare over the treetops at a sea of sea birds. More than
4,000 red-footed boobies and frigates nest in orange-flowered zericoti
trees, their guano offer fertilizer in return. A few frigates have their
bright red gular sacs puffed out to attract mates. Like pirates, they
attack other seabirds for food and regurgitate it into their chicks’
mouths. “I’m glad you don’t feed us like that,” chimes in Casey.
In
the morning, Andi has written “Meet the Fish of Lighthouse Reef” on the
chalkboard. She’s listed some of the prominent Families we’re likely to
see, including Angel, Funky Dudes and tiny Gobies. There are also
Silver Guys, Snappers and Grunts, as well as the tiny, attitude-filled
Damselfish and Butterflies, which have the fake eyes on their rears. The
Surgeons, we learn, pack heat in the form of a switchblade that pops
out from their side to stab predators.
We return from an
afternoon paddle to see James and Gene cleaning a barracuda on a wooden
countertop on the beach. Today’s “catching” session went well, the
fruits of which chef Bol will barbecue this evening. The entrails draw
nurse sharks and opportunistic frigates. The kids wander by with a lasso
for coconuts.
The next two days find us kayaking to a nearby
shipwreck and snorkeling near its hold, struggling to keep our course
sailing back to the island, and venturing to the Blue Hole, a
400-foot-deep sinkhole that’s the cornerstone of the national preserve.
It takes nearly two hours to snorkel around its perimeter.
On
our final full day, I paddle around the island with Andi and Dave. So
far the windward side has been off limits, with huge swell crashing off
shore. But it’s let up and we beeline out of a protected cove to open
sea beyond the breakers. At one point I don’t see Dave or Andi behind me
for a few minutes. Then their heads pop up at the top of a swell. I
wait to re-group, the swelling lifting and dropping my hull. After
clearing the island’s tip, we turn to starboard, carefully surfing the
rollers home.
It’s our last night and Bol breaks out his congo
for a local garifuna drum dance. James then hits a log with a stick,
wipes his brow, shimmies over it, and passes the stick around for us to
do the same. The rum punch helps everyone join in.
After a final
yoga session in the morning, I grab Casey for a quick tandem paddle
along shore. I’ve been in my kayak for six days now and my arms feel
loose and relaxed. Before the boat comes to take us home, James leads us
to a secret snorkeling spot on the island’s windward side. It’s the
best yet, allowing us to explore deep, canyon-like passages through the
reef. While a manta ray glides away from its perch in the sand and giant
tarpon patrol the perimeter like sentries, I go slow to take in the
little things – the fingernail-size Gobis and darting damselfish – all
in the stride of a flipper. It’s a notion I vow to follow back home.
Read more about Eugene Buchanan |
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IF YOU GO TO BELIZE...
Island Expeditions offers sea kayak and snorkel trips throughout Belize from November through April, for all levels of paddlers, from Bed & Breakfast trips to point-to-point camping trips to basecamp-oriented trips on islands like Halfmoon Cay and Glovers Reef. Info: www.islandexpeditions.com, (800) 667-1630.
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